Women’s Wear Daily
04.19.2014

Men's Fall Collections 2014

Jil Sander

Jil Sander Collection

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Jil Sander Men's RTW Fall 2014

That team delivered a solid, if safe, fall-winter collection defined by youthful tailoring and fabrics that were either lustrous or cozy.

Jil Sander Mens RTW Fall 2014

When Jil Sander departed her namesake label for the third time last year, her design team remained intact. That team delivered a solid, if safe, fall collection defined by youthful tailoring and fabrics that were either lustrous or cozy.

Mineral colors — from deep purple and teal to smoky greens and grays — were almost always worn head-to-toe, putting the focus on shapes. Tailored jackets and coats were boxy, whether hip-length or stretching to the knee with low-slung buttons. Pants were uniformly tapered from a high waist and cropped above the ankle.

Variety came via texture. Spongy leather coats, glossy shearlings and wet-look anoraks stood out and telegraphed modernity. Felt pants fronted with metallic bands seemed forced, giving legs a wobbly aspect as models walked. Sweaters were terrific, especially a crewneck sliced with a zipper from the rib cage to the hem.

While the moody jewel tones and boots with heavy lacquered soles gave the show a futuristic gloss, the collection lacked the spark that a creative figurehead can bring to a designer brand.

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