Women’s Wear Daily
04.18.2014

Men's Fall Collections 2014

Lanvin

Lanvin Collection

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Lanvin Men's RTW Fall 2014

Everything here was unmistakably Lanvin: the fluid tailoring, the curving volumes in lustrous couture fabrics, and the sophisticated sense of proportion.

Lanvin Mens RTW Fall 2014

Is a luxury house by definition constrained by the classic? The elegant? No way, according to Alber Elbaz and his men’s designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who set out to demonstrate that luxury can also be wild, athletic — even geeky.

Dialing up the fashion quotient — to heck with Lanvin’s 125th anniversary year — Elbaz and Ossendrijver dialed into a similar wavelength as Hedi Slimane, who has adopted a less reverential stance toward the name on the door and fanned a revival of rebellion-tinged musical styles from grunge to Teddy Boys at Saint Laurent. Everything here was unmistakably Lanvin, however: the fluid tailoring, the curving volumes in couture fabrics, and the sophisticated sense of color and proportion. Lucas Ossendrijver, who set out to demonstrate that luxury can also be wild, athletic — even geeky.

The show opened with a series of terrific tubular coats, edgy when zippered in lustrous black; more rugged in herringbone. A series of blousons followed in patchworks of leather, knitwear and glossy fur. Boxy mesh T-shirts, side-striped pants and neon sneakers telegraphed an athletic vibe. Lucas Ossendrijver, who set out to demonstrate that luxury can also be wild, athletic — even geeky.

Skinny ties, lightning-bolt prints and bold pinks and greens lent a new-wave look to some of the young, gangly models, though Elbaz and Ossendrijver might bristle at such categorization. Summing up a Paris season marked by a freewheeling mix of tailoring and street, Elbaz insisted it isn’t about being “either classic or wild or athletic. It’s all of the above.”

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