Minimalists run the risk of under-designing, and such was the case with a Jil Sander collection that left the audience wanting. Designer Raf Simons started on an intriguing note, with gold piping adding a glint of newness to basic white shirts. Then came a host of clever variations on white pique polo shirts that had been crossbred with cardigans, shirts and blazers. For example, a jacket-like cutaway was attached to the bottom of a polo shirt; another was extended into a belted trench. The inspiration for so many gradations of white came from the work of the Japanese-French painter Tsuguharu Foujita. One of his paintings, a light and watery depiction of decadent Western bodies, served as a backdrop to this whisper quiet show. But so much clinical apparel, with white shoes to boot, evoked hospital orderlies. The chief respite was a reproduction of Foujita images splashed over filmy knitwear or pants. A suite of perfectly cut midnight blue suits hinted at something more substantial that, alas, never arrived.