There’s a lot to be said for formal fashion shows, even low-key in the showroom. Yet a long-standing argument against such presentations for resort is that inevitably, some designers will crossover to the too-editorial side. Nothing against the entertaining flourish — DVF’s hairbows, Oscar’s anklets. But at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa went too far with the clothes in a season endlessly touted as all about dressing for reality — nearly every piece was transparent. Which is not to say the show lacked pretty things; when girls in organza pants practically mooned the audience, they did so with charm. Working within an artsy-sportif motif, Costa layered filmy cotton organdy jackets, tulle T-shirts and airy knits. He also showed some dresses in muted nylon mesh and organza tucked, wrapped and pulled into gauzy confections — lovely indeed. But almost everything needed an underpinning, and anyone wanting to know what Calvin Klein resort will look like in the stores needs a trip to the showroom.
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